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I was met by Boogi (bogey) our guide. I would share a van with Rema and Detleff who I had met as we boarded the train in Beijing. First we went to the bank to visit the ATM. It worked for VISA cards but not for MC. I exchanged some USD and then we toured UB. It was COLD (-9c) and windy. A temple, the main square, and a trip to the soviet friendship statue and then we traveled to the ger camp at Elstei. First by paved road then by trail we went about 50km from Ulan Batur. When we arrived I was shown to my ger (yurt) and then we had some good bread and Mongolian style dumplings stuffed with beef for dinner. My ger was heated by a wood/coal stove and it was toasty by after dinner. The next day after a good breakfast, we went horseback riding. Mongolian horses are very small and donīt wear horseshoes. They do have a very rough gallop so I had to choose between a sore butt or sore thigh muscles from posting. Turned out everything was sore. Then I walked to a Mongolian ger along with Rema and Detleff. Boogi answered questions and the wife of one of the horsemen served us Mongolian style tea...melted butter made it taste salty. It was quite warm and the newborn baby had rosy, chubby cheeks. After we left the ger camp we checked into the Baygol hotel which was very nice. I had a hot bath...did I mention that there was no bathroom in the ger?... and watched BBC. I took a walking tour of Ulan Batur and located a good spot to check my email. The next day after a good breakfast, I spent more time walking around town. I had nachos at a Mexican style restaurant. Not bad and then had a foot massage. We were picked up at the hotel and taken to the station to catch the train. We were warned about pickpockets again and it was a good thing. I boarded my coach and put my bags in the compartment under my bed. A few minutes later three Mongolian men came into the cabin and offered to help put my bags up above. I said no and sat down on my bunk. They left. Later another passenger told me that they had come into their cabin and stole $300 of their honeymoon money from her money belt. Later, the other passenger in my cabin showed up. He was a Russian veterinarian who lived in Ulan Ude. He had been in Mongolia inspecting beef for shipment into Russia. He was very friendly and we managed to communicate using sign language and my special picture translator. There were very few trees until we got closer to the border. I fell asleep and awakened when I felt the train was stopped. I went outside the coach and to my surprise noticed there was only my coach...no other coaches...no engine...just a deserted train station. After several hours, passengers started showing up for the border crossing into Russia. Two Mongolian women joined Alexander and I. They brought tons of stuff. Really. Cucumbers, tomatoes, bath towels, athletic shoes, hot water thermoses, TV antennas, etc., etc. Then they started sorting everything into bags. Then resorting things into other bags. And so on. We had a visit from Mongolian officials then the train began to head for the border. Bath towels must be serious contraband because the ladies taped a towel to each calf and hid it under their slacks. The Russian border was fenced and guarded and the process with the immigration and customs officials went on for quite a while. After the officials left all of the merchandise came out of all the corners and the Mongolian women got off the train with their goods. The train sat at the Russian station for a couple more hours. Elapsed time to go 42 kilometers and to cross from Mongolia to Russia...twelve hours. |
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29April-1May2004 At the train prepared to cross into Mongolia, the
bogies (the wheels under the train) had to be changed to match the Russian and
Mongolian guage. It was fun to watch the process. It took about 4
hours then we were on our way. It took a few hours for border formalities
then we arrived in Ulan Batur and were met by our guide who cautioned us to
watch our stuff. Good advice because a traveler on another coach lost
their wallet to pickpockets within minutes of arrival.