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25JUL-AUG2004 The contrast between the roads in Poland and the autobahn in Germany was striking.  All of a sudden there were no traffic jams of backed up trucks.  Instead everyone was whizzing along at 120+ km/hour.  I arrived in Berlin and followed the signs to Potsdammer Platz and from there followed Oliver's flawless directions to his flat.

I met Oliver in Tahiti three years ago when I first started my trip.  He said, "when you're in Berlin drop by."  So I did.  He invited me to a feast with his friends prior to the 9th of Av fast.  Oliver keeps a kosher kitchen so it was interesting to watch him prepare the feast.  

I hit the tourist high spots, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, and the museum square.  I went to Potsdam and saw the sight of the postwar conference and some other rather impressive palaces.  But, I'm beginning to go into MEAO (Monumental European Architechture Overload).  The buildings are almost too much:  statues, gargoyles, friezes, columns and gardens.  The sheer amount of human labor and talent that went into the construction of these places boggles the mind.  And now, everywhere I looked, restoration was going on.  

I stayed two nights with Oliver and then two nights with Chris.  I met Chris in Thailand and Nee showed him around Bangkok while I was in class.  He lives in a trendy part of Berlin that was formerly on the east side of the wall near the East Side Gallery.  The gallery is on the longest remaining section of the wall and was painted by artists. 

Chris is finishing up a website dedicated to German law relating to music and film.  It's designed to help creative people with the process of registering their work.  I drank beer with a raft of young German lawyers celebrating their final efforts on the website.  The political discussions were lively

On my last night in Berlin, Oliver wangled me a ticket to African Night, a cultural event sponsored by one of his friends.  I enjoyed African music and food.

Berlin to Kiel was a fast trip on the autobahn.  I arrived at Frank and Jenny's house in Klein-Konigsforde early in the evening.  Frank attacked the Thunderbold Grease Slapper like a formula one pit crew and soon it was road ready again.  All it took was a little chain adjustment and the replacement of the rear brake pads.  We were through in time for a beer before a barbecue dinner.  

As I rode up to Klein-Konigsforde I felt like I was returning to my home away from home in Germany.  It's good to have friends.

On Saturday Frank picked up his son, Johannes and we went canoeing on the Westensee.  The weather was a little wet at first but soon the sun came out.  We explored the Eider river and I taught Johannes some silly English songs.

That evening I attended the 60th birthday gala of Frank's neighbor.  A barn had been converted into a party place with amazing decorations.  When we arrived a Dixieland band was playing.  Hearing "When the Saints Come Marching In" wile drinking German red wine and aquavit is a unique experience.  The buffet featured all the local favorite foods so I had an interesting food experience.  Note: smaltz is mostly fat and should be spread on bread not eaten with a spoon and herring have small bones which can be eaten.  And remember, if you light your cigarette on a candle a sailor will drown.  

Between the exercise of canoeing 15km and eating a huge dinner, I may have broken even on my weight.  

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